Around Town

Overdue for my autumn fix I headed to our Christchurch Botanic Gardens last week.  I had left it a tad late in the season but found some great colours.  The maples were at their peak and there were some spectacular autumn oaks.  The new visitor centre is progressing and I was pleased to see one side of the “Keep Out” fence is being used for an exhibition commemorating the Botanic Gardens’ 150^th Anniversary.  It takes the form of a fictional Garden’s curator revisiting the Gardens with his granddaughter.  Worth a look.

I keep thinking this is the choice time of year to hop on a Welcome Aboard Caterpillar Gardens’ Tour.  Expect colours to be good for another week.  If taking an afternoon tour, the light on the Cork Oak is excellent.  I could imagine the knobbly bark, soft to touch, really making cork.  No good to me, though, my favourite bottles have screw tops these days.

Next day rain descended over Christchurch along with a sharp temperature drop.  But I was able to photograph the transitional so-called Cardboard Cathedral for the first time.  I admit to being a big fan.  It does look remarkably like the famous Arctic Cathedral in Tromso, Norway.  I cycled beneath it in 2008 oblivious of the possibility my heart’s aorta tube was about to start dissecting.  Luckily I got home to New Zealand and in good hands before it all happened.

Almost five years on, I am in good health from a cardiac point of view, maybe I have my own special link to our transitional Cathedral?

The idea is that of a Japanese architect, Shigeru Ban.  The cardboard tubes, 600mm in diameter x 20m long, used for cladding apparently cannot become soggy.  The building will be safe, meeting 100% of the new building earthquake code.  A day after my visit the first pieces of coloured glass window were being installed.  Another six weeks and it will all be up and running.

Back to a Welcome Aboard theme, Friday saw me up at the Port Hills Gondola where I had coffee (two cups!) and an excellent red wine steak pie.  School holidays attracted tons of kids so it was pleasingly lively.  I was surprised to see so many people braving the tussock hills close to the top station.  Weather-wise, the day was not great.  Nevertheless the light changing over South Brighton and Pegasus Bay was intriguing.  Views over Lyttelton Harbour were also good as the hills played hide-and-seek with scudding clouds.

Autumn shades and reminiscing

A maple tree exhibiting amazing shades of oranges and reds outside my window has me thinking about a previous autumn experience, in the Kansai district of Japan.  It was an impressive autumn shared with a long-time Osaka photographer colleague.  81-year-old Tatsuro san is a brilliant photographer with a love of New Zealand.  His exhibitions in Osaka’s Fuji Salon have attracted sponsorship from Tourism New Zealand.

We visited Kyoto temples with striking autumn colours and equally colourful kimono-clad women.  I wandered, alone, through the grounds of Osaka Castle, a tall gaijin (foreigner) amongst throngs of people – all with black hair and few I could communicate with.  With my Nikon in constant use, I was grateful for 16 GB SD cards.

A couple of days before returning to New Zealand I took a trip to Kobe, about a 45-minute train ride from Osaka, to see the how the  city has emerged from the devastating earthquake of Tuesday January 17, 1995 when more than six thousand lives were lost.  The financial loss was $US 160 billion.

Kobe, population 1.5 million, is these days arguably Japan’s most pleasant modern city.  On an early-winter day with clear skies, I discovered sites reminding me of the tragedy we suffered in Christchurch a little more than two years ago.  I spotted predictable clocks preserved with hands stopped at the moment, 5.46am, and reinstated fallen statues.  In an underground facility, Cosmic Elements, were wreaths of colourful paper cranes draped across sombre memorial walls listing the names of casualties.

Nearby an eternal flame glowed.  A fresh floral wreath had recently been placed on the pavement.  Seventeen years on, people were still grieving.  I visited a memorial park, where a small number of people were using a recreational running track surrounded by various exhibits including a children’s playground.  I walked several kilometres on a walkway taking me high above the harbour before retracing my steps to central Sannomiya train station.  A pavement plaque caught my attention.  The Japanese inscription was lost on me but three English words told me it commemorated the Spirit of Friends.  It got me thinking about my friends at home who have gained greater significance since Christchurch shook itself to pieces on February 22, 2011.  Another memorial informed Kobe as the founding site, in 1909, for the marathon in Japan.  A look-a-like tramcar with rubber tyres turned a corner, appearing a poor relation to our presently parked-up Christchurch trams.  Excepting San Francisco’s famous heritage trams, Christchurch’s Tramway is up there with the best as a worthy attraction for visitors and locals.  Maybe we need to work harder to raise their profile when they are back on track?

I wandered through a long, intriguing, arcade stopping for lunch at a worthy café called “Big kid.”

Returning to the principal thoroughfare, I wondered how Christchurch will make out in another decade or so.  How will a memorial to our 182 earthquake casualties, some young Japanese language students, look?  Will floral wreaths still be placed by caring citizens?  Will we have re-built the people-friendly city with interesting architecture we wanted?

Will we be tolerant people embracing a multi-cultural society and welcoming visitors from all nations?

Remembering Gordon Kirk

Gordon Kirk was my neighbour.  That was many years ago.  I thought of him during Mike Esposito’s Speech at the official re-opening of our Welcome Aboard Gondola.

Gordon Kirk had a long-time passion for the Port Hills.  Aged in his 70s, his long stride was hard to match when walking on the hills.  I once accompanied him on the Crater Rim Walkway long before the trail was developed.  It was tough going but we paused long enough to get a photograph of Gordon with a backdrop much like that seen these days from the Gondola’s top station.

I recall, in a newspaper story, comparing him to that famous Summit Road pioneer, Harry Ell.  I do not think he entirely approved with the comparison.  At the time Gordon was president of the Summit Road Society.  More than 20 years ago he was leading a Summit Road Society protest against the building of the Port Hills Gondola cableway.  I heard all about it mostly while yarning over our dividing fence – something we did frequently.  One objection to the proposed Gondola development was Gordon’s cousin Norman Kirk, a future Prime minister, having introduced the Reserves Act to Parliament.  The Gondola developers were riding roughshod over that.

More importantly, he was worried the Gondola development would fail to be a commercial success.  One could argue that the developers’ prospectus was misleading particularly the expected numbers to ride the Gondola and support its facilities.

If the development failed who would dismantle the complex?  Would it forever remain a collection of rusting hulks and a perpetual eyesore on hills that are the pride of Christchurch?

Well that did not happen then.  But it was a real possibility in the aftermath of the February 2011 earthquake.  Advisors had suggested the company walk away taking a pay-out to buy a house in Auckland.  Hence Mike Esposito’s brilliant comment, “Where is the challenge in that?”

And hence Mike’s speech making me think of my one-time neighbour.  Gordon Kirk was a truly wonderful guy commanding widespread respect.  He died some years ago and I was honoured to speak, briefly, at his well-attended funeral.

I regret I am unable to take him to see the re-opened Port Hills Gondola.  He would not only experience a complex that is commercially secure, he would approve of the determination and vision of Mike Esposito and his Welcome Aboard Christchurch company to save and revitalise the Port Hills attraction.  I am confident Gordon Kirk gives his heartfelt approval.

“Where is the challenge in that?”

So goes one of the outstanding comments by Welcome Aboard Christchurch Managing Director, Mike Esposito, at the official opening of the Port Hills Gondola attraction on April 19.

The Council-contracted geotechnical engineer who presented a report following the February 22, 2011, seismic event advised the Gondola attraction would never re-open.  It was recommended we take a pay-out and walk away.  “Go and buy a house in Auckland” it was suggested.

“Where is the challenge in that?”

I can understand the Auckland prospect not offering Mike a challenge.  Dogged determination, occasionally seeking advice from world geological engineering experts and a willingness to thrust long hands into deep pockets has paid off.  The Port Hills attraction opened with a hiss and a roar on March 25.  It was a brilliant autumn day bringing Canterbury people out in their droves in the lead up to Easter weekend.

A grey day greeted guests, mostly people involved in the Gondola re-start process, for the official re-opening.  I noticed a few details not typically on offer at the base station.  Before boarding one of the refurbished cableway cabins guests were offered a glass of bubbly.  Believe me, climbing aboard with my camera gear and a generously-filled glass when the cabin was moving, albeit slowly, was no easy performance.

The top station was abuzz with guest chatter and Continental Catering staff offering more bubbly along with welcome coffee and nibbles.  The entire facility was well polished – the toilets gleamed.  It looked good enough for a Prime Minister.  Which was just as well with the Right Honourable John Key’s name on the guest list.

Mike Esposito’s speech was brilliant in my view. It demonstrated ample passion and a modesty that failed to completely mask a deserved pride.  His speech followed a blessing by Douglas Couch of the Rapaki Marae.  When Mike mentioned his efforts to get another Welcome Aboard attraction, the City Tramway, up and running this year, the Prime Minister, John Key, led the applause.  Mike referred to the lookalike Olympic Gold Medal on the commemorative plaque soon to be unveiled.  Re-starting the Gondola attraction, although mostly involving working behind closed doors, was nevertheless an effort comparable to an Olympic champion.

Prime Minister, John Key, was obviously impressed, inspired even.  Before officially opening the facility he said, “It was a great day of celebration for Christchurch.  Mike’s story is a story of courage and determination, faith and belief in Christchurch.”  The Prime Minister also mentioned the progress being made in rebuilding Christchurch, observed during his regular visits, along with the resilience of Canterbury people.  He mentioned his recent trip to China and his belief, as Minister of Tourism, New Zealand’s ability to cater admirably for a huge influx of visitors from that country.

The Gondola opening was followed a few hours later by the opening of the repaired and spruced up New Regent Street to the public.  The so-called Cardboard Anglican Cathedral is on target to open in June.  With so much happening one can hope Tourism New Zealand will elect to go into bat for Christchurch with some worthy domestic and international promotion.

Another official opening this week by the Prime Minister was the rebuilt Christchurch Airport, clearly the Number One air travel terminal in New Zealand.

Unrepentant in the slow lane

I am a guy who prefers to travel in the slow lane, hence my passion as a one-time motorman on the Christchurch Heritage Tramway, and a mega bicycle traveller in far countries.  Not surprising then, last week I elected to take a 12-hour trip from Wellington to Christchurch.  Flying time is little more than 30 minutes for those in a rush.  Add on another hour for getting to the airport and checking in.  Another 30 minutes for getting home at the other end.

My day begins chillingly in the dark aboard the 7 am Interislander shuttle pickup at Wellington’s YHA.  I yawn from my early wake-up as we negotiate the city’s almost deserted streets.  The ferry terminal is bustling but easy to negotiate.  Interislander staff are pleasant.  I ride escalators and walk passageways until I am stepping aboard Kaitaki.  The ship is chartered by Interislander, explaining “Portsmouth” on various equipment.  I hear a cherry “Welcome Aboard.”  It does sound welcoming.  I have heard the expression somewhere else I muse.  The upper deck food court is bussing.  I settle down to an excellent breakfast and coffee.

Being a sunny autumn day much of the voyage is spent on the top deck.  I chat to visitor travellers and locals.  The latter are interested in Christchurch and how we are getting on.  The re-opening of our Welcome Aboard Port Hills Gondola attraction is well-known owing to television coverage of the March 25 event.  (Official opening is on Friday April 19.)

Cook Strait is having an almost unruffled day.  A guy from England remarks on the “strange” green hue of the sea.  “What colour is the sea where you come from,” I ask.

“Grey,” is his dour reply.

I spot a “been everywhere” kid with a T-shirt inscribed “London, Shanghai, Tokyo, Hokitika.”  The best is listed last?

I am intrigued by weird dome-shaped rocks, reminiscent of a Weta Workshop creation, near the entrance to Tory Channel.  The challenge is to line them up as we pass for a good photo. 

Marlborough Sounds are exceedingly pleasant.  Pleasure craft buzz about, their occupants waving to us gleefully.  Other craft go about their duties serving mussel and salmon farms.  And, rounding Dieffenbach Point, we pass the graceful, outgoing, Interislander Aratere recently lengthened and refurbished.

Despite an enjoyable sojourn up north, on assignment with agreeable German tourists, I am happy to have my clumsy feet anchored to the South Island.  In good time for the next leg of the journey aboard the Coastal Pacific rail service, I pass the time enjoying a beer at the Toot and Whistle bar beside the train station.

With six hours of my journey over, the train with its stylish new carriages (designed locally and constructed in Dunedin) promises an appropriate encore to the three hours at sea.  We glide through Marlborough’s vineyards and pass newly harvested salt at Lake Grasmere before skirting more than 100 km of scenic seaboard.  Two pods of frolicking dolphins are seen close to the shore.  Seaward mountains appear surreal basking in soft autumn sunlight.  We cross sparkling braided rivers, the water appearing much cleaner than that seen in the North Island.

Train staff discuss an announcement about to be made re the Coastal Pacific becoming seasonal over an extended summer.  Although passenger numbers have picked up over this summer, significant improvement is needed.  A lack of hotel accommodation in earthquake struck Christchurch is partly to blame.

I had heard about the announcement during a courtesy phone call from KiwiRail’s Scenic Passenger Manager Tom Evers-Swindell earlier in the day.  At least the train service is not being canned.  One can only hope South Island visitor travellers will return as Christchurch increasingly returns to normality.  Tourism New Zealand needs to put some effort supporting Christchurch especially championing our Welcome Aboard attractions along with other tour operators who have stuck out a woeful two years.

I am in my Bowenvale home at 7 pm, twelve hours after commencing my journey.  I consider it a day excellently spent.  I look forward to more agreeable autumn weather through April – perfect for a half-day up the Port Hills Gondola or a spin around the Botanic Gardens on an informative Caterpillar Tour.

I am home in time to see proposed plans for the future Christchurch Anglican Cathedral.  The contemporary design is in my opinion inspirational.  Appropriately it has a nodding acquaintance with Sir Gilbert Scott’s original design for our Christchurch Cathedral intended to be constructed in wood.  Sadly our pioneers insisted building an English-style Cathedral in stone.  A bad call it turned out to be for a future seismic active region.

More Gondola Celebrities

Sandra and Jurgen Bohme were delighted to re-visit the Port Hills Gondola yesterday on the last day of their six week New Zealand visit.  From Nottingham in England, they had visited the attraction on February 22, 2011, also on the last day of a New Zealand visit.  They had been in the Summit Café when the earthquake hit.  Being close to the epicentre of the event, they were shaken about.  Everything around them was being trashed.

“We were evacuated to the Summit Road behind the Gondola complex,” Sandra recalls.  “We were getting aftershocks and huge cracks were opening in the hillside.”

They arrived on the Summit Road where someone kindly gave them a ride to comparative safety.

“Although alarming, it did not seem to worry me too much at the time but when we met our daughter at the airport in London a couple of days later I burst into tears,” says Sandra.

Yesterday they were facing cameras of two television channels before getting their own cameras clicking and whirring.  They reckoned they were quite safe being on the hill this time.

Two old timers, brothers Robert and Henry, fronted with their well-worn annual passes.  I remembered them from my working on the trams.  There was not a day when they did not take a ride.  They were delighted to discover their passes were still valid for the Gondola and, along with others, complemented Welcome Aboard for their generosity.  They also thought the re-opened Gondola attraction was a delight.  “Just need to get the trams going again,” they told me.

Up and away………

“Awesome.  A victory for Christchurch,” is how Zane McKinnon, the first person to ride the re-opened Port Hills Gondola attraction yesterday (March 25, 2013) described the experience.  He was accompanied by his mother, Sandy, from Kaiapoi.

Zane, formerly of Christchurch, now living in the UK, is an adventure junkie.  Planning a trip home, he was booking Thrillseekers activities on-line when he spotted a link to Gondola.  Clicking on that he discovered it was about to re-open after more than two years owing to the February 2011 seismic events.  Having pleasant memories of the Gondola and mountain biking on the Port Hills, he booked a ticket to ride not knowing he would be the first.  Zane and Sandy were on the receiving end of considerable media attention.  Also facing the cameras and reporters’ notepads was a smiling Michael Esposito, Welcome Aboard Managing Director.  The day was perfect and it was wonderful to see the refurbished cabins, loaded with people, moving up the cable.  Michael had every reason to smile.  He could look forward to much needed cash going into the company’s bank account.  The Shop at the Top had an excellent day and Red Rock Café was continually patronised.

I took my first ride to the summit with 82-year-old Peter Manson.  Decked out in his walking garb and armed with his hi-tech walking pole, he was in his element.  He reckoned the Gondola rode smoother than two years ago.

During the morning I admired the antics of a workman climbing one of the towers to install a wind speed indicator.  (The indicator tells operators when wind strength renders the Gondola too uncomfortable to use).  As it turned out, we experienced very little wind on the hill yesterday.  The sun shone.  People kept arriving.  Cantabrians were delighted to see the Gondola re-opening as a big step towards normality.  I also chatted to several visitors…..